Diane's Basic Soap Making recipes
These recipes are given with the idea of anyone using them, but in particular they are for Australians to use as we do not have, readily available to us, some of the ingredients mentioned in some books and online sites. These recipes work as a basic kick off point and are just meant as a starting point on your soap journey!
Back to My soapmaking methods - Index
- 250 gm olive oil
- 250 gm coconut oil
- 250 gm palm oil
- 250 gm tallow
- 142 gm lye/caustic
- 375 water... full MMS amount
- 400 gm olive oil
- 300 gm Coconut oil
- 300 Gm palm oil
- 144 gm caustic /lye
- 375 gm water... full MMS amount
- 700 gm olive oil
- 250 gm coconut oil
- 50 gm castor oil
- 139 gm lye
- 375 gm water ... full MMS amount
- 1 kg olive oil
- 128 gm of lye/caustic
- 375 gm water
- 250 gm of olive oil
- 250 gm of palm oil
- 250 gm of tallow
- 250 gm of coconut oil
- 40 gm castor oil
- 147 gm gm of caustic/lye. This is 5% superfat.
- 190 gm /ml of water
- 200 ml of goats milk
Set aside the GM into the freezer so that it is near frozen for when you need it.
Mix the caustic/lye with the water.
Make sure it is well mixed in as this lesser amount of water makes it more easy to get lumps .
This will be left til it is room temp.
When it is room temp, slowly add it to the slushy GM making sure you keep the temp down to under 120F /50C. It may take 5 mins to do this.
The result is a yellow thick mix. If it is orange then it is too hight a temp and you will get a beige/brown soap not creamy colour. That won't affect the soap, just the looks.
Mix the GM/lye with the oils which should be no more than 110F /45C. I keep them lower myself usually as I aim for a very pale soap.
Bring to trace, fragrance and colour if necessary and mold as usual.
I dont colour this soap and rarely fragrance it.
Do not insulate a milk soap.
It will generally have a bad ammonia smell for a few days, but this will pass.
This method (not the recipe) is one that was taught by the late JD Anderson.
I do believe that he later changed his method to adding the milk at trace, which is easier I guess. But I stick with this successful way for the reason it has never failed me in 2 years.
Also, I prefer my GM soap to be Cold Processed as opposed to Hot Process. It looses its lovely dense look in the hot process.
The addition of castor oil makes this one of the really luxurious soaps. You can do it without the castor and just adjust the lye/caustic on a lye calculator. It then becomes my standard recipe that I make most of my soaps from.
To any of these recipes you can add whatever you like in the way of *luxury* oils... eg emu, apricot, almond, castor, macadamia, avocado etc etc etc.
IF YOU DO... RECALCULATE THE CAUSTIC /LYE AMOUNT:
PLEASE CHECK THESE recipes AND ANY OTHER ONES YOU ARE EVER GIVEN AGAINST A TRUSTED CALCULATOR BEFORE USE. TYPOS HAPPEN and THINGS GET CHANGED.
NEVER EVER USE ANOTHERS recipe WITHOUT CHECKING IT.
I use and recommend... .www.thesage.com/calcs.
- Diane's Naturally Handcrafted Soap
- Contact form